Sunday, July 26, 2015

Review: First Cabin Haneda

My first night in Japan was at the First Cabin capsule hotel right inside Terminal 1 of Haneda airport. This is a good choice if you're arriving to Haneda late (particularly on an international flight), so you don't have to try to rush and get the last train while also trying to get your bearings and learn how the transit systems work.

I did have a hard time finding it. The airport wifi wasn't really working for me from Terminal 1 and I wasn't seeing it on the listings of what was on the floors of the terminal. I ran into a security guard who could tell I was a bit lost, who directed me down a back hall, around the corner from the escalators and across the way from a JP Post kiosk.

I failed to snap a pic, so this is from TripAdvisor
First Cabin seemed a bit higher class than a standard capsule hotel, with "capsules" that were about as tall as I was, with only one level of "capsules". Really, they were more booths than capsules.

This is probably a good improvement for a capsule hotel for most people, but I was a little disappointed, as I wanted to the full capsule hotel experience, no room to stand and all.

First Cabin provides sleepwear and slippers, though the sleepwear was a bit too small for me, and the slippers were cheap enough that they were ripping after just walking to the bathroom twice. You're allowed to keep them, and it's clear that the reason why is that they're completely disposable.

Japan loves disposable things.

One thing I hadn't expected were that the bathing facilities were basically...

Japanese Public Baths

Japanese public baths are a very communal experience. It's split by gender, but other than that, you're bathing nude with other people. There is a shared cleaning room, where people (in full view of other people) clean themselves before entering the bath, where they're all hanging out in the buff.

First Cabin has essentially this setup, however, in between the "cleaning" rooms and the bathing room, there are some showers. I'm unsure of this is a common feature or not, but the showers themselves were private.

Being a westerner, and a particularly reserved one at that, I wasn't really up for this. I ended up taking a shower at around 2am, when few people were around. I really, really needed it, as I had gotten much grosser than I would have expected on the flight (more about this exciting topic later).

Additionally, the "toilet room" is often separate in Japanese bathrooms, which was also the case here. At the entrance of the toilet room, they provide separate toilet slippers that you should change into (or so I've inferred).

Forced Checkout

One thing anyone should know before staying at a capsule hotel is that there is a forced check out time, regardless of how many days you stay.

Let's say you stay at a capsule hotel in Shibuya for two weeks, check out is at 11am and check in at 3pm. This means you need to gather all your crap and check out, hang out with your stuff, and then check back in sometime after 3pm.

Capsule hotels are, consequently, not the most convenient option for vacation lodging, which is unfortunate as they're sometimes reasonably cheap. I might have considered staying at one for a longer period of time if this wasn't the case. This wasn't an issue for me at First Cabin, simply because I was only there for a night.

That evening, I ended up booking a studio in Sumida via AirBnB for the entire period, though there was a very tempting cave for only $10/night, giving free reign to get your Grave of the Fireflies on.

I Kept My Bags

I've heard that capsule hotels, due to the limited room in the "capsule", want you to leave your bags with the front desk. I was prepared to submit to this, even if it wasn't my favorite thing in the world, but surprisingly nobody mentioned anything about it. I was in my capsule, bags in hand, before I even remembered that taking your bags was supposed to be a thing.

I was able to fit the bags next to me and still have plenty of room to sleep.

Perhaps, due to the larger capsules at First Cabin, they don't follow this policy that is standard elsewhere, or alternatively, maybe I slipped through with my bags completely by accident. Either way, I was happy to keep them in my posession.

Summary

I was happy with First Cabin. It is perfect for what it's supposed to be--a place to crash on your way to Other Places(tm). I'm personally hesitant to do the public bath thing, and anyone staying there should be aware of it before they decide not to stay at the more upscale (and consequently more expensive) hotel in the other terminal, but this is just a cultural difference and personal preference, not a valid criticism of the hotel.

That being said, I may be visiting a hot springs near Fuji, if I can build up the courage. I might not see the point of overcoming my inhibitions for just a basic bath, but real hot springs are a real part of Japanese culture I'd like to experience.

Saturday, July 25, 2015

I Look Like A Drug Mule (Day 01)

Deplaning at Haneda

Who invented the word "deplane"?

Someone who shouldn't be allowed to invent words, that's who.

I'm in Japan!

My first indication I was in Japan (other than inherent knowledge and signage) was when I saw one of those golf cart things in the airport hallway start up.

It played a little startup tune: Hi-Ho!

Off to work you go, you kawaii little golf cart!

There was a long hallway, with numerous bathrooms, eventually leading to...

Forms

On the plane flight, they give you the immigration forms. There is a part for when you land, and a part that is saved for when you eventually leave Japan. That part gets stapled to your passport (so don't worry, you don't have to work hard to hang onto it).

They ask you for some expected things, like your name, birthday, passport number.

They also ask you if you're bringing in various contraband, like drugs and weapons, which of course I wasn't. As a matter of fact, I didn't even bring the personal drugs anybody might normally bring (prescriptions, excedrine, etc.), which it turned out I would be thankful for later...

Finally, they ask you for the hotel you're going to stay in for your entire trip, your "lodging during your stay in Japan" or something to that effect, along with the address.

I didn't know that shit!

For starters, I only had one hotel picked: First Cabin at Haneda. I was planning on booking from Japan, depending on how my attempt to get a last minute JR Rail Pass went at the airport.

Second, not expecting to have to answer about my hotel on an official form, I didn't have the address handy. I never wrote it down, since it was literally at the airport, in Terminal 1.

I'm not sure how this goes in most countries (and don't recall if my hotel was on the form to get into the Netherlands), but in the US, it's common on forms to ask for lots of extraneous information that they don't want. You'll be filling out a form at the DMV, and it'll ask you for your favorite color in high school, and you'll start writing "GREEN", but the DMV worker will grab the form out of your hands, because who really gives a fuck, right?

This seemed like one of those questions.

This impression led to a very critical mistake: I opted to leave that part of the form blank.

I did intend to put the name of the hotel, once I'd touched down, but for some reason the "Cabin" part was escaping me. I kept thinking "First Class", but on the plane I was sure that wasn't it. I'd use my phone to double check the name once I touched down and had access to wifi, fill out the name, but still leave the address blank.

Or so I thought.

I forgot about the omission, and went straight for the immigration desk.

Immigration

I give the forms to the immigrations desk guy, and desk guy very quickly pointed out the omission of the hotel name and address.

Doh!

I'd never looked to get the "Cabin" bit of the name, was still thinking First Class and still knew it was wrong. I hadn't dealt with the wifi yet, so rather than set that up to get the information, still thinking it was probably more or less a bullshit question they didn't really care about, I told the truth: I forgot the name, but it was the capsule hotel in Terminal 1. I figured, working at the airport, he'd probably be aware of the hotel.

He wasn't.

His English was also very basic, and we were having difficulty communicating this.

I ended up putting "First Class Haneda" on the form, which made him happy and he let me through. At least for him, it seemed it was in the gray area of "bullshit form question": He needed it filled out, but didn't really give a crap what it said.

Whew.

Customs

Japan has two separate checkpoints to get into the country. I'm calling them immigration and customs, though I don't really know the official names. I'm not a very experienced international traveler.

Immigrations was all about you, while "customs" is checking your luggage. This is the component that was concerned with bringing in contraband and such.

Their form had the same "Hotel" section, and it was still empty on that form when I approached their desk. I hadn't really expected a section checkpoint, and mindlessly approached it, repeating my mistake from minutes before.

The immigrations guy--let's call him Bob--pointed that section out to me as well. I once again said it was a capsule hotel in Terminal 1, but that I'd only booked the first day and couldn't quite remember the name. I very quickly worked my way to throwing "First Class Haneda Terminal 1" onto that form as well, trying to expedite the same process as before and get as close as I could to making Bob happy, despite my failures in planning.

Bob gave me back the form, but then pulled out some sort of picture menu of drugs, asking me explicitly if I brought any of them in.

That felt really condescending. I mean, asking me, sure, but what was he expecting? That I would point to the picture of crack cocaine, and exclaim, "Oh, I get it! I thought you just meant personal drugs! Yes, I am bringing in illegal drugs with the intent to traffic them, and thank you for showing me these pictures of my wares so I could effectively communicate this fact to you!"

If they feel suspicious of me for whatever reason, that's fine, but you can't treat me like a mentally challenged idiot and a criminal at the same time. It's ridiculous and it doesn't work that way, regardless of which type of person I am.

He asked me if it was alright if we went to a different room so they could inspect my luggage.

I found it interesting that they phrased this as a question--what if I'd said no?

"Oh, my apologies. Go on your way!"

Probably not.

I said it was fine.

The Inspection Room

He recruited a second person, we'll call him Jim, along the way, and they asked if they could check both my bags.

I had a backpack laptop bag and some regular boring luggage with clothes, the sort with a handle that pulls out so you can roll it around behind you. I brought very little with me, in terms of variety:
  • Clothes
  • Toiletries (toothbrush, toothpaste, deodorant, glasses cleaning fluid and towel)
  • Laptop and related cords
  • Phone and related cords
  • PSP and cords
  • Yotsuba To Volume 1 (book)
  • Glasses (backup for my contacts)
  • Portable Hard Drive
  • Mouse
  • That's it.
There's no reason this should have been very difficult.

Bob starts taking all my clothes out of my bag, inspecting each one, while Jim pats me down (politely asking me if he can first).

Jim goes through my backpack, fairly thoroughly though still not with the gusto that Bob went through my actual luggage. This is somewhat ironic, as my backpack has all sorts of different pockets (some of which Jim didn't think to check--though those were all empty anyway, since they're small and borderline useless), while my luggage is just one giant box with two pockets in the front for toiletries or whatever.

There was one interesting thing about the luggage bag, though. The liner unzips, maybe so you can separate clean and dirty laundry or something, and inside that liner is supposed to be a plastic plate that makes up the back of the bag. At some point, that plastic plate cracked. I don't know when it happened, but it was that way before I packed it. There were little plastic shards inside that liner that I've ignored since I have no reason to open the liner. I don't use that feature, and have only ever used this bag one other time (it was my father's).

Bob asked me about it, I told him it's been broken. He starts pressing against every inch of the walls of the bag, over and over again, while Jim starts asking me about my trip. At the first question, it seems like it's a "tell us why you're here", but almost immediately it just becomes conversational.

"Do you mind if we X-RAY this?" Bob asks.

"Go ahead," I tell him, and Bob leaves the room with my empty bag. X-RAYing it seems ridiculous to me, since there's clearly nothing there, but I was happy to let him do whatever he felt he needed to do.

Another security guy enters the room while Bob is gone, we'll call this third guy Frank. I wonder if they have a rule that there has to be at least two people with a "suspect" at any time? Perhaps to prevent them from claiming some sort of abuse or coercion?

Jim and Frank are now both just asking me about my vacation. I tell him I'm primarily visiting Tokyo, but would like to hit up Kyoto, Kamakura, Mt. Fuji and I almost volunteered Aokigahara. It's one of the places I'm most excited about visiting, but I bit my tongue and said "the forests around Fuji" at the last minute. I didn't want them to get the idea that maybe the reason I seem suspicious--and so agreeable--is that I was planning to go kill myself in the suicide forest.

The would have been much more difficult to disprove.

Jim said that Kyoto was very cool, and Frank asked me if I was going to visit Akihabara! They both seemed genuinely interested (though probably still in a polite way--the point being that these two didn't seem personally suspicious of me).

Bob's White Whale

Bob finally comes back, says the bag checked out.

Great! I should be able to go on my way, right?

He seems hesitant...

And he starts feeling the sides of the bag again.

Because, you know, there could totally be something to find still at that point, right?

Lord.

Jim, Frank and I are just standing there for a while, watching Bob. Eventually Frank chimes in and asks a question. I couldn't quite make it out, ask him to say it again, fail to understand again and Jim clarifies: Frank's asking me if I've ever tried marijuana.

Jim and Frank seemed to like me, while Bob apparently had it set in his mind that I was some sort of drug mule. One might think there's a good cop/bad cop thing going on here, and if that was true, Frank's question would have been the culmination of that relationship.

I don't think that's the case. I think after seeing Bob desperately go back to checking the bag, Frank just decided to throw something at the wall to see if it stuck. Basically throwing Bob a bone. I'm pretty sure the both of them, like me, just wanted Bob to finish his little bag checking crusade so we could all move on.

I told them I hadn't smoked Marijuana, though it is legal now in the state I'm from (Oregon).

Jim responded, trailing off, "Ah, ah, we just had to ask because..."

Justifying Frank's question instead of letting Frank do it, I guess.

Conversation went pretty dry after that, and eventually Bob asked to X-RAY the bag... AGAIN.

I told him to do whatever he felt he needed to do.

I remained nice, but that was the point where my demeanor changed subtly from "pleasant" to "cooperative", because that was the point where, if asked point blank if I thought this was getting ridiculous, I'm not sure I could have lied and said "no".

Spoiler Alert: No Drugs!

Bob came back with the bag once again, and said it checked out once again. He paused, perhaps thinking of some other excuse to continue his brief crusade, then finally said I could go. He started putting my clothes back in my back, which I really wish he'd just let me do... when I'm being "investigated" to ensure I'm not a criminal, whatever, but once there's no specific purpose to it, I'd rather other people not touch my stuff. I'd also prefer to make sure the back is organized the way I originally had it.

Because I'm kind of an asshole control freak at heart.

Jim had left most of my possessions in my backpack, so he had very little to do. The backpack really didn't get the attention it deserved relative to the luggage. Bob finally got all the clothes in, while I had, with ginormous personal strength, resisted asking him to let me do it, and was trying to zip it up.

The bag wasn't very full at all--I've left room for souvenirs--but I assumed that because he didn't put it back in the same way it must not fit very well anymore. I offered to help close my bag, and he said I could. I pushed the top down, barely touching it, and it was clearly not going to be hard to shut at all, when the both of them suddenly put all their weight on the lid of the bag.

Over-engineered that a tad...

Both bags were shut, and finally, I was free to go.

It took an hour, but I had finally, successfully, entered Japan.

Probably Better Than The US

As much as this was an unnecessary waste of everyone's time, it could be a lot worse. The US randomly picks people to hassle, or hassles them for purely political purposes. I believe we hassle them much further, as where this guy just went a little nuts with checking my bag.

I'm not sure if this was purely because of the form omission or if Bob thought there was something off about me personally, but I think I've learned my lesson: Be complete and accurate whenever filling out a Japanese government form, regardless of the circumstances or apparent usefulness of any given field of the form!

NOTE: I want to specifically mention that I used non-Japanese names not out of disrespect, but out of fear that I would do a shitty job making up and using fake Japanese names correctly. It was a hassle, but I'm still fine with it happening (honest, gives me a story to talk about :) and they people involved seemed like perfectly nice people, even Bob, despite not knowing when to accept he doesn't have a guity party.

Friday, July 24, 2015

Math is Hard. Also Getting to the Airport. (Day 01)

Spur of the Moment Deficits...

As I've mentioned, this was a spur-of-the-moment trip. I'd spent a good portion of 2014 seriously thinking about visiting Japan, then eventually shelved it. Then, late July, decided to up and do it anyway with two days notice. This resulted in me not getting the JR Rail pass, missing out on the Ghibli museum (unless I want to pay 7,000 yen for 1,000 yen tickets), missing out on touring the imperial passes in either Tokyo or Kyoto, etc.

None of this was really unexpected, but in addition to this, some more basic planning was also skipped out on. For starters, with the JR Rail Pass up in the air until I got to Japan (last hope was to buy the pass from an airline ticket counter--didn't pan out, ANA's ticket counter in SFO was closed), I wasn't even really sure what kind of itinerary I would be shooting for.

If I'd gotten the pass, it would mean unlimited travel throughout major areas of Japan for the duration of the pass. I could go down to Osaka, do some day trips to Kyoto, visit Hiroshima, Fuji, head north, visit the Fox Village, check out the real-life Hinamizawa, Nikko National Park, and so on. I would have been extremely mobile, and was considering a week in Tokyo, two weeks of travel around Japan on a 14 day pass, then one last week in Tokyo.

On the other hand, if I hadn't gotten the pass, it would make more sense to stick around Tokyo and limit my travel, as the rail fees would add up. A round-trip ticket from Tokyo to Kyoto is about the same price as the 7 day JR Rail Pass.

Which is why I said...

Screw Lodging!

That's right, I booked all of one hotel before boarding my plane: The First Cabin Capsule Hotel in Haneda Airport. Without knowing even what parts of Japan I'd be visiting, it didn't make sense to book much in advance, so I decided to do it once I got to Japan and did or didn't have the rail pass. My flight got in at 10:30pm, and between customs, getting my bags and figuring out how to get around, well, I didn't even want to try getting into the city. The last train was around 11:30, so the hotel in the airport seemed like a good choice for the very first night.

I almost booked something for that first week, as I could pretty much guarantee that I'd spend that first week in Tokyo, but between being generally indecisive and thinking I'd prefer different options if I were to book for a month vs a week, I decided to hold that decision off as well.

So, ultimately, I only had one hotel booked for my month stay when I got on the plane: First Cabin Haneda.

Flight

My flight was on United, starting with a United commuter flight from PDX to SFO, then another United flight from SFO to Haneda. The return trip is on Air Nippon to Vancouver, BC, then a Horizon Airlines flight home.

The whole trip ended up being a bit stressful. I started taking the MAX (Portland's light rail system) from Hillsboro, OR to PDX. This requires taking the Blue Line in Hillsboro to downtown, then switching to the Red Line to get to the airport. I've done it before, and it takes something around an hour and a half. No biggie.

I took that Blue Line train to Pioneer Courthouse Square, where I planned to switch to the Red Line. I was craving coffee, and there's a Starbucks on that very block, but I held out. It could wait until the airport.

A few minutes later, the next train came, only... it was another Blue Line?

That was weird.

Speaking of "Weird"...


While I was waiting, I noticed a nifty free newspaper, "The Asian Reporter", with a report on a Japanese hotel that uses weird robots instead of staff.

The Henn na Hotel ("Weird Hotel") is located in Nagasaki on Kyuushuu as part of Huis Ten Bosch, a theme park recreation of The Netherlands. If I'd gotten a JR Rail Pass, I might have visited here, as it would have been trippy--the only other International vacation I've had was one to The Netherlands and France in 2007.

The hotel is expensive, though, around 35,000-40,000 yen a night, so I would have only booked it for one night for the novelty (if I could actually pull the trigger on that price at all). Incidentally, you'd think with robots instead of staff, costs could go down.

Regardless, seeing that randomly before I even got to the airport seemed like a great omen.

The Next Train Comes...

...and it was another Blue Line!

WTF!

An older man with luggage was waiting by the curb, looking damned ready to get onto that next train, but backing way the hell off once it showed up with a distinct lack of red lineage.

Clearly heading for the airport too.

He started a chat with another man, and then the two off them walked off into the sunset down the street together.

That was also strange.

Meanwhile, I checked my email on my phone, and a customer from work had a concern.

I hadn't gotten around to setting my "Out of Office Reply" yet, so I decided to deal with it when I got to the airport, but anxieties were starting to pile up.

What the hell was up with the trains?

And when could I get coffee?

I looked around the MAX stop for some sort of signage, indicating delays or something about the Red Line and found nothing. Finally, I started searching the 'net on my phone and finally figured it out: There was construction on a part of the Red Line between there and the airport.

Apparently, if you magically knew where to go, there were shuttles to a later Red Line stop so you could continue.

SURE WOULD BE GREAT IF THERE WAS SOME INDICATION OF THAT!!!

Anyhow, after waiting 45 minutes, it turned out I was about 15 minutes away from when the Red Line started up again, while I still wasn't certain about the shuttle business, so I decided to wait it out (and if the line didn't start again on time, I'd just call a god damned taxi).

Luckily, it did show up, though it did make a nerve-wracking 10 minute stop at the next MAX station. It's like Tri-Met (transit authority) was torturing me on purpose.

Finally Made It (to the airport)

I'd left early with time to spare, but thanks to Tri-Met, ended up getting to the airport at the last possible minute. On a lark, I asked the United Counter if they could sell the JR Rail Pass. Supposedly the Japanese airlines (ANA, JAL) sell them, and since United was the group shuttling me to Japan, I thought I'd give them a shot, but that was a bust. No surprise there.

I got through the security checkpoint, and had a critical decision:

Coffee or work?!?

There was a Coffee People within view of my gate!

I got some iced coffee, hurriedly emailed my work customer and set my Out-of-Office Reply while the first two groups boarded the plane, and made it just in time to board with my group.

Cramped-Ass Flight

FULL DISCLOSURE: I've gained some wait in the past decade.

Commuter flights have always been cramped. They're also the only flights I've ever taken, the only exception being my flight to/from Ireland for my Netherlands/France trip, which was spacious and lush despite not booking a first class flight or anything.

Other than the tiny prop job planes (this was a 737), they've always been the same, but I swear the sets got rearranged to pack even more of them into this plane. It was more cramped than I ever remember a 737 being.

Ugh.

After the connecting flight, I went to SFO, failed at acquiring a JR Rail Pass, then took my international flight...

...which had the same sorts of seats as a commuter flight from a decade ago. Not the nice, roomy Aer Lingus seats.

I'd planned on using my PSP and my laptop for significant portions of my flight, but it was just too cramped. I felt like my elbows were invading my neighbor's space. Luckily, the movies on the flight were free, and I watched all the Taken films. My first pick would have been Violent Shit, but United didn't seem to have those available...

I Didn't Get a JR Rail Pass

Things You Should Do Before Leaving Japan

  • Get a JR Rail pass (comes in the mail)
  • Buy Ghibli Museum Tickets
  • Book a Hotel

Things I Did Before Leaving Japan

  • ITEM_GOES_HERE <--- This means nada.

The JR Rail Pass is Awesome

That's the downside of planning this trip on the spur of the moment. I'm sure I could have saved money on plane tickets and lodging, but the biggest loss of doing this at the last minute is not having a JR Rail pass. This pass, which you can purchase for one or more weeks, will allow you to ride unlimited times on almost all JR Rail trains. It's not the best solution for public transportation in Tokyo--you'll want to pay-as-you-go on a SUICA/PASSMO card or buy day pass tickets for Tokyo Metro/Toei Line, depending on that day's itinerary--but it's damned near priceless if you want to travel around other parts of Japan.

Japan has a great railway system, including high speed "bullet" trains (the Shinkansen), that covers pretty much any destination you would want to go. You can stay in Tokyo and make a day trip to Kyoto. Or you could go to to Kyoto, then Osaka, day trip in Kobe, over to Hiroshima, back to Tokyo, to Mt. Fuji, go to Kamakura, over to wherever the hell that steepest roller coaster in the world is...

...and doing it all will cost you a pretty penny. A trip to Kyoto is something like 145,000 yen.

That's one way.

A JR Rail pass for one week is 29,110 yen.

A trip to Kyoto and back, and you're roughly even. Add in _any_ other destination, and the JR rail pass becomes absolutely worth it.

You MUST purchase it before you leave. Like, at least a few days before you leave (it comes in the mail). They do not sell it in Japan, as it's only for foreign tourists.

I Did Not Get the JR Rail Pass

I did not have time to get the JR Rail pass before coming.

I tried to rectify this last minute. Some travel agencies sell it directly, including some Japanese airlines. My flight to Japan was from SFO, but I had a connecting flight from my hometown of Portland to San Francisco, and SFO has an ANA (Air Nippon Airways) ticket counter.

I crossed my fingers.

When I got to SFO, the ANA ticket counter... was closed. All I did was have to go through security an extra time, and waste a precious 30 minutes that could have been used to eat breakfast (it was already 7pm and I hadn't really eaten that day) or better deal with a last minute request from a customer at work.

I'll be going to Kyoto and back, doing a trip down to Kamakura, and probably a trip to Mt. Fuji. I'll have to avoid any further travel outside of the Tokyo area to make up for missing out on the rail pass.

Boo.

Spur of the Moment Trip to Tokyo

My cat is too dumb for entry to Japan
I spent half of 2014 thinking about visiting Japan on a nice long vacation. I've always been a fan of the country, from 85% of the video games I've played, to the small selection of Japanese anime and films I've watched.

More importantly, the culture.

Tokyo itself, from afar, has always seemed like a vague hint of the future, at least from the perspective of the '80's. From crazy urinal video games, to excessively neon-lit signs, to multiple vending machines on every corner, it seems like the past perspective of an inevitable future of consumer culture in America, today.

A retro-future.

That's not really quite where consumer culture ultimately went in America, as online ventures killed the brick and mortar business while ecological and health concerns overtook a number of other conveniences. A major Japanese recession in the '90's probably didn't help.

In contrast to the craziness of Tokyo, Japan is a culture with much deeper roots than that of the United States. Japan houses the oldest wooden building in the world, the temple of Houryuji, dating back to a reconstruction in 600AD after being burnt down by lightning. This is about a thousand years after Japan's first emperor, Emperor Jimmu in 660BC.

The Emperor, including the current Emperor, is the head of Japan's shinto religion. The gods in Japan aren't so much thought of as conscious figures, but more as just aspects of nature. Not many Japanese are overtly religious, yet they all seem to attend the Shinto shrines. They pull what they feel makes sense to them from other cultures, coming with uniquely Japanese takes on anything from Christianity to crepes.

I have to greater point to make.

I'm visiting Japan.